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Briwax Wood Care Products

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Briwax Wood Care Products Home | Where to Buy | Contact Us |Well-nighBriwax Waxes                       Oils                            Wood Dyes             Other Products   How To...          How To... This page contains increasingly detailed information to help you get the weightier results with Briwax products.  Scroll lanugo the page to see more, or use the menu on the lower left to jump directly to the section you want. Protecting a floor with Danish Oil For wooden floors new and old, Briwax Danish Oil is a far largest finish than polyurethane.  Instead of forming a synthetic coating over the top of the floor, Briwax Danish Oil penetrates and hardens the wood from the inside, permitting the natural eyeful to shine through.  Danish Oil won't yellow or one-liner over time.  When the surface wears or gets scratched, polyurethane coatings have to be laboriously sanded off and reapplied.  Briwax Danish Oil can be hands re-coated at any stage in its life to bring when the original finish. Briwax Danish Oil doesn't stick floorboards together.  Floorboards can and will move over time.  If you use a polyurethane or other ‘plastic’ surface finish, this will one-liner as the floorboards move.  With Danish Oil, each workbench is coated and protected.  It doesn't matter if the boards move, the finish remains intact. Whether the floor is new or old, make sure the surface is wipe and sanded smooth.  The largest finish you start with, the largest the final result will be. For the first stratify use Briwax Danish Oil neat, or thinned slightly with well-nigh 10% mineral turpentine. Wieldplenty of oil with a brush, cloth, or a foam roller, to make sure the wood takes up all the oil it needs.  Wipe off the glut with a reticulum as you go.  This way you make sure there's unbearable oil in the timber, but you don't run the risk of creating a 'surface’ of Danish Oil on top of the wood.  Leave this first stratify to dry overnight. Once it's dry, rub the floor lightly with a fine sandpaper (about 320 grit), and wipe off the dust.  You can wield the second stratify either neat or thinned up to 50% with mineral turpentine, then making sure that you don't leave too much on the surface. For a increasingly durable finish, rub with 0000 grade steel wool and wield flipside coat.  Some people plane like to wield four coats, if the floor is particularly heavily used or subject to water, such as a kitchen or entranceway. When the surface becomes worn, you can restore it very easily.  Wipe the floor with mineral turpentine, and wield flipside very thin stratify of Danish Oil.  This will renew the original finish with very little effort. Danish Oil goes a lot remoter than most finishes.  As a guide, we find that a 5 litre tin of Danish Oil is unbearable for four coats on well-nigh 30 square metres of flooring.  The first stratify uses virtually half of the oil, and the subsequent coats are much thinner, considering the wood has been sealed by the first coat. If you want your floor to have a gloss finish, wield Danish Oil for the first stratify as described above, then use Teak Oil for the second and subsequent coats.  The first stratify of Danish Oil 'grips' the wood slightly better. Finish yellowish furniture using wax A lot of modern furniture is supplied as yellowish unfinished pine.  To colour and protect the furniture, the easiest way is to wield a coloured wax.  Just rub the furniture with Briwax Original Wax, unromantic with 0000 steel wool.  After well-nigh 10 minutes, the wax will have hardened, and you can vitrify it to a deep shine with a soft cloth.  That's all there is to it! If you want a deeper colour, wield flipside stratify of coloured wax.  If you want a lighter colour, wield a stratify of BriwaxWell-spokenWax.  TheWell-spokenwax will ‘thin’ the colour that was unromantic first. In hot weather, Briwax Original can go liquid.  It's harder to wield the wax when it's like this, and it doesn't go as far.  Put the tin in the fridge for a while, or in the freezer for 5-10 minutes, and the wax will harden again.  It's a lot easier to create a good finish when the wax is firm, particularly with the darker colours. Wax is not waterproof, and if spills are unliable to stay on waxed surfaces they can rationalization white spotting or watermarks.  To remove these, just wield flipside stratify of wax to the unauthentic area.  Applying new wax will remove the old wax and replace it with a new coat, which should remove the watermarks.  However, if you indulge the surface to remain wet for a long time, the watermark will get into the wood, and applying increasingly wax won't solve this. Finish yellowish furniture using stains and oils For a increasingly durable finish, particularly on horizontal surfaces, use Danish or Teak Oil.  You can wield Briwax Spirit-based dye first, to requite you the colour you want. Spirit-based dyes requite a very intense and long-lasting colour deep inside the wood.  Unlike many other finishes such as wood stains, Briwax Spirit-based dyes are not a finish in themselves.  This ways that you can get exactly the colour you want, and then protect it with oil as a final step. You can mix the spirit-based dyes to unzip scrutinizingly any colour. Planeif you've once unromantic some dye, you can wield flipside colour and they will mix together.  Briwax spirit-based dyes are based on methylated spirits, so you can lighten the colour by subtracting methylated spirits. Consideringthey are a dye, not a stain, Briwax Spirit-based dyes don't create ‘tide-marks’ when they dry.  You can wipe over the existing dyed zone with increasingly dye, and you won't be worldly-wise to see the join. Once you're happy with the colour, protect it with one or two coats of Briwax Danish Oil or Briwax Teak Oil.  Danish Oil has a matt/satin finish, and Teak Oil gives a gloss finish.  Sand between coats with very fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool.  See the section on finishing floors with Danish Oil whilom for increasingly details. For table and seat tops, use three or four coats of Danish Oil.  If the surface is well sanded and thoughtfully finished, we've found that Danish Oil is resistant plane to hot water.  Many of our clients have finished commercial bar tops with Danish Oil.  However, we wouldn't suggest using Danish Oil where the surface is likely to be used for cutting; sharp knives can cut through the surface into the wood, which will indulge water to get into the wood at a later stage and forfeiture the finish. One of the biggest advantages of Danish Oil is that it's very easy to repair the surface if it gets damaged.  Wipe lanugo the surfact with mineral turpentine and 0000 grade steel wool, and wield one increasingly stratify with a cloth.  Once dry, the surface will be good as new.  If the surface is increasingly seriously damaged, sand it lightly first and wield one or two coats of Danish Oil. Once you've finished your furniture with Danish Oil, you can create a deeper sheen on surfaces that aren't likely to get wet by applying a stratify of well-spoken Briwax Original Wax over the top.  The two variegated finishes create a trappy depth to the shine. Revive faded outdoor furniture All wood, however it's finished, will soon fade in the sun.  In New Zealand, the intense UV of the sun makes this happen particularly quickly.  Using Briwax Spirit-based dye and Teak Oil you can restore your outdoor furniture to squint plane largest than it did when it was new. If the furniture is blackened and dirty, wipe it thoroughly.  A waterblaster makes this job easy. Indulgethe furniture to dry out completely, then sand the surface.  Again, make life easier with a random orbit sander.  Start with 80 grit sandpaper to get the worst off, and finish with well-nigh 180 grit, or preferably if you like.  Now wield the colour.  Use removable rubber gloves when handling the Briwax Spirit-based dye, as it won't come off easily!ReversionMahogany is a favourite for Kwila furniture.  Light Oak is an volitional if you like a lighter colour, but any colour will work.  It's easiest to pour the dye into a shallow dish, and wield it with a cloth.  The dye will be dry within 20-30 minutes. Now, with flipside shallow dish and flipside cloth, wield a stratify of Teak Oil in exactly the same way.  Just wipe it on with the cloth, and make sure you don't leave too much on the surface, to stave any drips.  Leave this first stratify to dry overnight. In the morning, rub the surface with 0000 steel wool, wipe off the dust, and wipe on a second stratify of Teak Oil with a cloth.  Once dry, this should be enough.  If you want a higher gloss, wield flipside coat. The surface won't last forever – nothing will in our climate.  However, it's wondrous how easy it is to repair the finish when you want to.  A very light sand, flipside wipe with stain, and a wipe with Teak Oil will bring the surface when to new.  At the start of the season, this can take as little as half an hour to restore a whole outdoor setting. Frequently Asked Questions Where can I use Briwax Original Wax? Briwax is most wontedly used to wipe and protect reversion furniture but can moreover be used on wood floors and kitchen cabinets that have laquer based finishes.  Briwax can moreover be used on yellowish wood to colour and protect.  There is no faster, easier way to colour and protect wood mouldings, spindles, and unpainted furniture.  Briwax can moreover be used to protect metals such as brass, chrome, copper, and aluminum from tarnishing as quickly as unprotected metals. Briwax Original Wax shouldn't be used outdoors, or on areas that are likely to get wet. How long will Briwax last? Of undertow it depends on where it is used, but in general, if you cannot get a shine with a soft buffing, it is time to re-apply. In upper traffic areas this can be as often as every few months.  In vertical applications and low traffic areas Briwax will last for years.  Note: Briwax does not contain UV inhibitors so uncontrived sunlight will rationalization it to fade.  Briwax is not an exterior product for this reason. What if I don't like the finish? Briwax, or in fact any wax, can be removed with Briwax Furniture Cleaner. Can Briwax Danish Oil be used over polyurethane? Yes, if the surface is rubbed lanugo with 240 grade sandpaper first.  This should be considered only a temporary repair, though.  We unchangingly recommend removing the existing finish completely first (by sanding or stripping), as the underlying problems inherent with polyurethane finishes (yellowing and cracking) will still happen over time, and will rationalization the unshortened coating to degenerate. Does Briwax Danish Oil come in colours? No, Briwax Danish Oil does not come in colours, but you can tint it with Briwax Spirit-based Wood Dye.  The resultant coloured oil does not have a long shelf life, and so it should be mixed and used within a few days.  The disadvantage of mixing the Wood Dyes with Oil is that you are single-minded to a specific colour.  If you wield the Wood Dye to your wood first, you can add increasingly or variegated colours until you are happy with the colour, and then seal the colour with Oil afterwards.  If you wield tinted Danish Oil and don't like the finished colour, you will need to sand the finish off surpassing you can re-colour the timber. Can I use Briwax Danish Oil on a kitchen seat top? Yes, you can use Briwax Danish Oil on your kitchen seat top, table tops, floors, window sills and doors (interior & exterior) as long as you follow our instructions.  See the section on Protecting a floor with Danish Oil for increasingly information on how to create a strong, waterproof finish with Danish Oil. I have skim markings in my Danish Oil! What can I do? This does happen sometimes on the second or third coat.  Lightly sand the surface with a 240 grade sand paper and then wield Briwax Danish Oil thinned with mineral turps by 15-20%.  By giving the product increasingly spritz in this way, it should cure the problem. How far will my Briwax Danish Oil go? This depends on the using and on the timber it is unromantic to, but often 12-14 square metres per litre is the norm, although on the second and subsequent coats this can double or treble! A five litre tin of Danish Oil is normally sufficient for four coats on a floor of 30 square metres. I have trouble with my Briwax Danish Oil not drying, why is that? There are a few reasons why this can happen: temperature; a contaminate in the timber; unshaken cans or using too thick.Oftena wipe lanugo with mineral turpentine, left to dry and lightly sanded, then a thin stratify of the oil will remedy this. If I want a upper gloss finish on the Danish Oil what can I do? Danish Oil gives a unappetizing natural squint to the timber.  If you wield two remoter coats of Briwax Teak Oil over the first stratify of Danish Oil, this will requite you a gloss finish. Can I use wax on top of Briwax Danish Oil? Yes. Briwax Original Wax is recommened, to requite a deep and long lasting sheen.  Try one of the Briwax coloured waxes to requite a deeper colour. On this page... Protecting a floor with Danish Oil Finishing furniture using wax Finishing furniture using dyes and oils Reviving outdoor furniture Frequently Asked Questions